LUXOR, EGYPT

It's September 27th and time to fly to Luxor for a few days. I'm up at 0245 (AM) to throw on some clothes, eat some breakfast and head out to the airport for my 0530 flight from Cairo to Luxor.  

Yesterday some of Hassan’s relatives from the Delta area visited and brought a famous delicacy from that area.  It is hard to describe, but is very delicious.  Thin pancakes are layered then lightly fried with oil.  Then honey or molasses (known as black honey here) is either added in between the layers or put on the side for dipping.  The pancakes are not as thin as philo dough but thinner than a crepe.  They brought a suitcase full of the pancakes!!!!

This morning for my very early repast Hassan warms up some of the pancakes serving them with a side of molasses.  Yum!!!  And, of course, I have my serving of plain zabady (yogurt) for the day.

While all of Egypt is my heart place, Luxor is it’s seat.  Getting off the plane I can feel the ancient energy.  Mohamed is here waiting for me to take me to my favorite little hotel on the west bank very close to the Valleys of the Kings & Queens and many wonderful funerary temples.

Mohamed at the bread truck

He stops on the way to the hotel to buy some falafal and bread. These are to be for my breakfast. Yes, another breakfast.  It is no good to tell him I had breakfast in Cairo as he will insist I eat again.  They love to feed you here as it is the sign of hospitality.

Downstairs restaurant area Habu

Habu Temple at night

Mohamed’s family run hotel is very rustic, but is clean and restful.  Not to mention it is across the street from on of the best preserved funerary temples, Medinet Habu.  There is nothing like sitting up on the large roof top and gazing on the temple, especially at night when it and the mountain behind is all lit up. The lighting of the mountains is a new occurrence in the last year. 

Mountain at night behind statue of Memnon

I have not seen Mohamed or his mother since 2008.  During my last visits in 2009 & 2010 he has been in Saudi Arabia. He has two children now!  A girl 3 and boy 14 months.  They are darling.  His mother greets me like a long lost sister and insists I have lunch.  She is so lovely and gracious as is Mohamed’s wife.

Habu Temple early morning

Roof Top Terrace Habu

In the late afternoon Mohamed takes me to the local ferry landing so I can cross the Nile and meet Ahmed. I love taking the local ferry.  It is full of interesting people. People watching is a special treat and gives some insight to the local culture and dynamics of interaction between men and women.

From the local ferry I stroll the corniche (a walkway along the Nile) to the Sonesta St. George where I will meet Ahmed in the lobby. Many offers of Calesh lady? and taxi lady? and felucca boat lady? ring in my ears.  Some are more insistent than others.  The best way to handle it is to walk eyes straight ahead like I am deaf.  If I even say La shoukran, they want to know why :-) and the conversation is much elongated.

By the time I reach the Sonesta (20 minute walk) I am hot and dripping.  HMMMM!  Perhaps I should have taken the offer of a calesh, a horse drawn carriage.

Ahmed meets me at 1730 (5:30PM) and we discuss the recent elections and his feelings.  I am not surprised that his view is different from Hassan’s. Ahmed’s view is having democracy is the most important and even though it is not perfect and the leaders are less than desirable now, it will change.  He says it will take time, maybe as much as 10 to 20 years to make the change to the best for Egypt. The educated young people who caused the revolution are between 18 and 30 years of age and have no clear leader.  When they grow older and can organize more effectively then Egypt can grow and change for the good of all.

According to him the Salafists (the extremists) are very good at getting out the vote.  They provide many different services to the poor that the old government would not, such as medical, educational and nutritional.  They sent buses and cars to take them to vote.  They spend time with them educating them about the point of view they hold.  They target the uneducated and poor who are easy to manipulate.  They have 22 TV stations spreading their message, and they have been doing this for years and years.  It will take time to achieve a balance.

In the meantime this is the first president to be elected in a democratic way and he sees this as a very positive step for Egypt while realizing that it is just the beginning.  Even though he is suffering financially now he believes, in the end, it will be for the best.

We now walk to Ahmed’s flat which is not far from the hotel. I am greeted by his children and wife, Kalcum, with much love, hugs and kisses.  We spend a delightful evening together. It is as if we have never been apart.

Much Love To You All,

Mom/Grandma/Sara