Around The World With Sara

SAILING THE NILE IN A DAHABYIA

OCTOBER 2015-PART 4

Dear Family & Friends,

After visiting Esna Temple we boarded the boat to continue our journey up the Nile (remember the Nile flows south to north so going south is up!!!) towards Edfu Temple. And for the first time we sailed - really sailed!!!

Steps To The Plateau Of The Tombs

First we stopped at a site called El Kab only accessible by road or Dahabyia. After the boat is tied up we walked through the town of Nekheb El Kab down a dirt road, across railroad tracks and then a paved road to enter the site of the tombs.

This area and town date back to predynastic times continuing into Ptolemaic times and is one of the oldest if not the oldest areas in Egypt and boasts ruins from many dynasties. As we walked down the dirt road we passed a massive area still walled in with mud brick walls. This once was the temple dedicated to Nekhbet, the vulture goddess of Upper Egypt (southern Egypt). Its area surpasses the area of Karnak Temple in Luxor!!! For those of you who have visited Karnak you can imagine the immensity of this site.

Carefully looking both ways for vehicles careening down the tarmac road we crossed and entered the site of El Kab’s four tombs called rock cut tombs because they are cut into the mountainside. Mounting the many stairs we arrived at the top where in front of us, all in a line, were the entrances

Entrance To A Tomb

to the four tombs open to the public.

My favorite was the tomb of Pahari who was the mayor of Nekheb, the chief of the priests of Nekhbet and teacher for prince Wadjmose the son of Thutmosis I in about 1500BC. The paintings in this tomb are bright and well preserved plus there is a niche in the rear wall that contains the statue of Pahari with his wife and mother.

Statues In Rear Of Tomb

If memory serves (should have made notes!!), this tomb also contained texts of accountings of Pahari’s duties.

Accountings Of Pahari's Duties

Pahari Teaching Wadjmose

The other three tombs were interesting especially the tomb of Ahmose:

Ahmose served in the Egyptian military under the pharaohs Ahmose I, Amenhotep I and Tutmose I. Under Ahmose I he was prominent in the wars of liberation against the Hyksos rulers when they laid siege to the town of Avaris in the Delta. He is described as the “Captain of Sailors” while serving under Tutmose I.

Ahmose Next To Text Of Autobiography

His autobiography has survived and is intact on his tomb walls. This is very unusual making this tomb of great historical value.

Tomb 3

Setau was a priest in the service of Nekhbet during the reign of Ramses III.

Tomb 4

Renni was a mayor and high priest of Nekheb during the reign of Amenhotep I.

Back on board we continued our sail, yes sail, towards Edfu Temple. While we were sailing Hieke and Ahmed boarded the motor boat that pulls us to take pictures of us sailing.

Sailing!!!!

Sailing was just the BEST - quiet and serene, but with a delicious breeze cooling us from the intense heat of the day.

Our Captain Maning The Sails

It was getting dark as we arrived and tied up close to Edfu temple. We were to visit the temple after dark and see the newly developed sound and light show. Ahmed arranged for us to take Caleshs (horse drawn carriages)to the temple. I have never visited this temple at night and it was impressive in the dark. The moon was almost full lighting our way into the site. Since the sound and light show is new, I have not seen it and was eager to do so.

The show was very well done and similar to Karnak and Philae where you walk through the temple as the story is told. The story is about Isis and Osiris and Horus as is the one at Philae. What really made this show truly unique is the lighting and use of the inner sanctuary where the barque (boat) of the god Horus is located. In ancient times each temple had a barque for the particular god of the temple, but this temple is the only one with the barque intact.

Below are two pictures of Edfu lit up for the sound & Light Show: