SAILING THE NILE IN A DAHABYIA

OCTOBER 2015-PART ONE

Dahabyia Tied To Shore

Dearest Family and Friends,

Ever since the first one started sailing some years ago my desire to sail on the Nile in a sailing house boast called a Dahabyia has been a dream of mine. Back in the 1800s and early 1900s a dahabyia was the transport of Pasha’s, Kings, wealthy visitors to Egypt and even the temporary home of archeologists during “season".  When they first started sailing the Nile again there were only refurbished original ones. Now there is a mixture of refurbished originals and newly built like the ones of yesteryear, but modernized.  My journey took place on two different vessels.  The first was an original refurbished one built in 1910 and, the second built like the ones of old in 1998. I was delighted I was able to sample both.

On 21 October I boarded a plane for Luxor from Cairo and was met by Ahmed, my friend since 1995. We stopped by his apartment to pick up his wife Calcum and youngest child Judy before arriving at the Dahabyia. A couple from Germany had arrived the night before and spent the night on the boat.  Since it was only 08:00 (my flight arrived at 07:00!!!), they were still sleeping. My cabin was lovely and larger than I imagined it would be. Since this was an older model, it had a fan for cooling instead of A/C.  But even that was only available at several intervals throughout the day as the electricity came from a generator. 

The plan was to sail from Luxor to Esna spending one night along the way tied up beside the Nile outside of Esna, and return to Luxor to spend a second night there. Why we did this is too long of a story and not really important. Esna is south of Luxor which meant we were to sail against the current (Nile flows from south to north) and without a motor we were at the mercy of the wind. Therefore it was a rule that every dahabyia must have a motor boat along to pull when necessary.

Being Towed

When Gunter and Renata appeared later in the morning I realized I had met them earlier this year in February while in Luxor visiting Ahmed and family.  We set out one small happy group towed by the motor boat.  The wind was not cooperating, but then it evidently rarely does  along this stretch of the Nile.

It was so relaxing sailing along so close to the shore and down low so the view was so very different than being on a cruise boat.

Up Close

It was like I had never been on the Nile before!  We reached our destination outside of Esna for the night just in time to take a walk back through the fields to a farmer’s house.

Down Low

We were met by his wife (or one of his wives) and she was surprised to see us appear but was very gracious and welcomed us.  Just then the man of the house arrived on a huge tractor and she took off running to meet him. The farm was growing bananas, as well as vegetable and greens.  It must have been quite extensive to need a tractor of that size. 

A few other members of the household came out to see who we were and what was going on, but we could not stay as the sun was setting

Sunset

and we needed to make it back to the boat before dark settled in. With no ambient light and even with the full moon approaching

it would soon be very dark. 

Back on the boat we sat down to a delicious meal and great conversation. Then off to my cozy cabin with ensuite bath and comfy bed to be rocked to sleep by the waves of passing cruise boats.

Much Love To You All,

Sara/Mom/Grandma Syrup