Sierra Leone March 2011

Dearest Family and Friends,

Standing on the deck watching as we arrive in Sierra Leone I am struck by the differences of the Freetown skyline from the other countries we have visited.   Down at the very edge of the water are what appear to be hovels made of wood.  At first they just look like part of a brown hill leading up from the edge of the ocean.  It would seem that any wave of any significance would just wash them away.  As my eye travels up the hill more permanent structures appear and finally the tall sky scrapers fill the sky.  It is obviously a densely populated city.

We pass the hospital ship from Mercy Ships.  On her hull it says Africa Mercy which leads me to believe that she makes a certain circuit around the African Continent.  This also tells me that medical care is probably lacking.

Today we are taking a tour of Freetown and most of us are continuing on to the Tacugama Chimp Sanctuary.  We are warned that the traffic in Freetown is the worst we have seen and that we might be held up in stopped traffic for hours.  This is no exaggeration.  The upside of this slow go is that there is plenty of time to take in the very colorful sights.

This is a true city with shops lining the streets and people of both Islamic, Christian, and other faiths wandering by.  I can see the obvious difference in the dress of the different faiths.  The streets are narrow and cannot handle the traffic of 1.9 million (the new consensus has it at 5 million still yet to be confirmed).  I look down the side streets where the are more people than cars.  Even in Cairo, a city of 15 million, the density of people per square meter is less than here.

Our guide tells us that the average government worker makes $100 per month and in the private sector the average is $150.00 per month.  When asked the cost of renting a two bedroom apartment she replies $1,000.  We’re thinking per month when after a  pause she says per year.  Still at $80+ a month that eats up most of the workers salaries.  Sadly, the illiteracy rate is 60%.

Sierra Leone had 10 years of civil war that was one of the most bloody and terrible wars in Africa.  Peace finally came in 2002, but the war left many orphaned and maimed inhabitants.  We pass some amputees alongside the street.  As our bus is stopped in traffic a woman approaches the window holding up both arms to show us her missing hands.  During the war the educated and professional people fled to other countries and even 9 years later have not, in any numbers, returned.

Our first stop is Freedom Plaza erected after the war.  As we approach the plaza we see creatures flying in great numbers in and around a large tree.  Marius identifies them as the Straw Fruit Bat.  Once we debus they can be seen and heard when we walk under their tree.  When they land they bunch up very close to each other.  It is so interesting I stand and watch them. 

Freedom Plaza is very inspirational and has many colorful sculptures and murals throughout.  There is a mural of  the Amistad ship.  If you have not seen the movie Amistad, you should rent it.  Sierra Leone’s slaving history  began when, in 1560, Sir John Hawkins started the American slave trade in Freetown.

Across the street is the small National Museum.  There are very graphic pictures of some of the atrocities of the recent war.  Once I realize what they are I cannot look and wander off to other rooms.  Much to my delight one of the rooms contains quite a selection of the Mende women’s masks that Roz spoke of in her lecture.  It is wonderful to see them in person.

We crawl through the streets once more on our way out of the city and to Lumley Beach where we stop at the Atlantic Beach Bar for refreshments, beach shopping and a dip in the ocean.  We are greeted by a band playing drums, symbol type instruments, and gourds with beads and strings shaken to the rhythm of the beat.

The band follows us inside and begins to entertain us even further with jugglers, fire eaters, and dancers.  At the same time vendors have set up their wares on the beach just on the other side of the short wall that separates the pavilion from the beach.  There are beads, carved figures and masks, shirts, caftans, and cloth.  I find another piece here for Marge.

Next is lunch where we will meet with the newly appointed American Ambassador to Sierra Leone, Michael Owen.  The tables are set up on a covered pavilion by the pool.  The chairs have white satin covers and the tables are covered with white linen.  Very elegant.  As I sit in the chair the satin covering only goes so far down and for a brief moment I am suspended, the satin acting as a hammock for my butt.  Then, slowly, it lowers me to the seat of the chair.  I am one of the first to sit and it is really funny to see the looks on the other faces as they sit and get “hammocked”.

In his speech the Ambassador confirms my suspicions that medical care is severely lacking.  Most of the doctors fled during the war, and science facilities were completely destroyed.  There is one psychiatrist in the whole country and he is 77 years old.  There are only a couple dozen doctors and 1 in 8 women die in child birth.

He is optimistic, however, and feels that the situation is improving.  Professionals who left are now contacting him about coming back and asking what they can do to help.  He has arranged for the Peace Corps to start activities here again and to send 90 teachers.  

I am struck with the difference between Ghana and here.  Ghana has had peace for the same amount of time and is light years ahead of the Sierra Leone in bouncing back.  My guess is that Ghana did not lose the same number of professionals and was in a completely different place politically at the start of their war.

Those of us who are going to the Chimp Sanctuary leave after lunch for that destination.  We were told that it is a very steep climb for about 150 yards up the hill to the sanctuary.  Maybe there will be a small number of 4X4 vehicles to drive a small number of people up the hill.

Once again, this is no exaggeration.  The only other “hill” I have climbed that is steeper than this one is the steep side of the Great Wall of China.  The difference is that the wall incline was paved and this hill is not.  To say I feel a great sense of accomplishment to have made it to the top without slipping and sliding all over the place is an understatement.

At the top we are given a short explanation about this sanctuary and what they are trying to accomplish.  Chimpanzees are still being killed for bush meat and shipped off to be sold as pets in other parts of the world.  Both of these activities are illegal.  Thus these are rescued chimps from these activities.

The goal is to eventually release them back into the wild, but that has not happened as yet and in reality and for various reasons will probably be impossible.  However, there have been escapees 4 of whom are still at large.

The first chimp we see is a baby about 18 months old being held by his keeper.  He is very curious about us and moves his head side to side like a belly dancer.  He is precious and mimics head movements he sees.  

We pass cages where some are kept in quarantine for one reason or another, but the majority of them are in large areas so they can play and go about chimp business.

Part of that chimp business is throwing huge rocks at the observers.  There are nets covering the target areas and sure enough one chimp climbs to the top of a bare tree with rocks in his mouth.  He perches on the top of the tree, takes aim and fires off the first rock which hits the net with a good deal of force.  So much so that we instinctively jump back.  Then he lets go of the second one and it too hits the mark.  After that he turns his back and sticks his behind up in the air mooning us.  Hmmmmm - I get the idea that he may not like to be stared at.

Soon I hear screaming from across the platform and go over to investigate.  Below is a huge chimp with a grey beard and a black face.  I had no idea they can get so big.  There are a few other chimps there and soon more and more begin to come out of the trees.  At last I notice hidden down below two men throwing food into the compound.  Aha! - feeding time.  The big guy walks over to the fence and holds out his hands wanting the care takers to throw the food into his hands, and they do.  It is beneath him to scrounge on the ground for his food as the others are doing.

This time as we slog our way through traffic we are led by two policemen on one motor bike.  No siren just a waving of the arms and miracle of miracle the cars move over.  At one point one of the men gets off of the bike and is running ahead of the motorcycle waving the traffic off to one side.  Then I begin to hear a siren behind us.  I am hoping it is our rear guard and not some poor soul in an ambulance trying to get to the hospital ship.

There are some white knuckle moments as we race along rounding curves trusting that the traffic will obey the police, but we make it back to the ship safely and in good time.  Tired and hot, my day ends with me holding wonderful memories of yet another exotic destination .

Much Love To You All,

Mom/Grandma/Sara

NEWGRANGE AND HILL OF TARA, COUNTY MEATH, IRELAND

When Catherine and I were in Dublin last November taking a tour of St Michens’ small underground “catacombs”, we met a very interesting young lady.  Among many other enticing tidbits I remember one that struck my fancy.  She said if we liked St. Michens, we had to go see Newgrange, an ancient burial place. 

Thinking Newgrange was close by Cat and I decided it sounded like a good idea. Upon researching it, however, we found it was too far outside of Dublin for us to fit into our schedule. Thus I decided I would stay an extra day in Dublin before I was to come home from my “Playshop” at Creacon. 

Seamus, our van driver, agreed to stay up in Dublin when he brought us back from Creacon to our hotels and come get me on the following day to take the journey to Newgrange about 35 to 40 minutes outside of Dublin in County Meath.

The night before our adventure I researched County Meath and found that there are many wonderful ancients sites there.  Newgrange is one of three burial sites in the same area.  It is the largest of the three in size but held the least number of burials.  The other two, Knowth and Dowth are barely visible from Newgrange.  Only Knowth is open to the public and only from May through September. Among other treasures found in County Meath is the Hill of Tara.

That site caught my eye because it was the seat of Kings both in pre-historic and historic times.  It also caught my eye because of the Sister Fidelma books by Peter Tremayne (fiction based on historical facts) about an Irish nun and an advocate of the ancient law courts of Ireland during the mid-seventh century. She solved all kinds of crimes in that area.  She was also the sister of the High King and he ruled from Tara. My son Scott and daughter-in-law Sarah introduced me to these books. Anyway, nothing would do but to add that site to the next day’s adventures.

At the appointed time of 0930 I met Seamus in the lobby and off we went into the bright sunny day (yes, I am sure I was in Ireland!), out of Dublin and into County Meath.  The road signs are not the greatest and we got a bit lost partly because of that and partly because we were chatting away like old lost friends.  As we drove back from whence we came, I suddenly spied a green mound with a bright white front.  There it was, Newgrange and what an imposing sight it was. 

Front of Newgrange

Seamus had never been there and it seemed silly for him to wait for me like some chauffeur so I bought two tickets.  He was a great companion and very interested in learning all he could about the site.

While we were waiting for our allotted time to catch the bus from the visitor’s center to the mound itself we toured a small exhibit and watched a short film about the discovery.  We speculated about the symbols found on the kerb stones of the monuments and what they might mean.

Newgrange and her distant neighbors are still shrouded in mystery. The bodies were all cremated and there are no documents or pictographs telling the story behind these ancient sites. They do know it dates back to the Neolithic age in 3200 BC which makes it older than Stonehenge and older than the great Pyramid at Giza!!! Never did I think I would ever enter anything older than the pyramids.

Opening for Solstice Sun and Carved Kerb Stone

It is constructed as a cairn composed of 200,000 tons of rock and dirt. A small opening over the main doorway lets the sun shine in and flood the inner chamber with light on the Winter Solstice in ancient times as well in modern times. 

Ancient Standing Stones

It is time for us to catch our bus and the short ride to the site.  We are let off at the foot of a hill that leads to the small building where we turn in our tickets and we can buy post cards.  Newgrange sits on the top of the hill some distance away.  It’s quartz rock facade sparkles in the sun and the emerald green grass on top is a sharp contrast to the cerulean blue sky. There are ancient standing stones that are so prevalent at other ancient sites in Ireland, England, Scotland and Wales on the grounds in front.

Side of Newgrange 

I could gaze on this site forever, but it is time to walk up the hill and go inside.  In front of the entrance is a huge carved kerb stone. To gain entrance in ancient times it was necessary to climb over the stone and move aside the very heavy stone covering the doorway. Wooden staircases have been built to the side to allow and up and over access to the area in front of the entrance to the passage leading to the inner chamber.

We are told that it is a low and narrow passage and anyone feeling they might have claustrophobia should take up the rear so they can easily execute a hasty retreat!  I’m thinking “goody, just like entering a pyramid”.

As we duck and squeeze our way through to the inner chamber, I note that some of the stones have carvings while most are plain and unadorned.  Once inside the chamber it opens up to a spiral shape ceiling soaring high above our heads.  The spiral is formed by large boulders and smaller rocks and is primitive but ingenious in construction.

The chamber itself has three alcoves formed beyond the walls of the main chamber.  Two of the alcoves contain a shallow basin stone where the ashes of the interred were found. The third alcove has a basin in a basin and lovely carvings on the wall.  Only 5 bodies were found and there is only one chamber in the entire huge mound/cairn.

To replicate the winter solstice sun shining through the small hole and into the chamber our guide turns off the lights leaving us in complete black.  A black so black your eyes will never adjust.  Using her flashlight she creates what seems like sunlight slowly filling the chamber. Whoa!  Goose-bump time.

After leaving the inner chamber we walk around for a bit drinking in more bits and pieces of the outside.  Then back to the bus and on our merry way.  Next stop a pub for lunch or at least that is the aim. If you want to learn even more about Newgrange, go to Wikipedia.

Seamus tells me that the pubs aren’t open for food like they used to be. The economy, fast food places and modern malls have taken care of that. Sadly, he is right as we stop by pub after pub in little villages and larger towns on our way to Tara.  If they are even open, and many are not, they aren’t serving food. Finally we give up and eat in the cafe at the visitor’s center on the Hill of Tara.  The food is excellent and reasonably priced.  The gift shops are fun and full of great stuff.  I restrain myself to a pamphlet on walking the hill, a green scarf, and a couple of gifts for folks back in Bend.

The Hill of Tara is one of the largest complexes of Celtic monuments in all of Europe! It was first settled 6,000 years ago and remained a special site of political and spiritual significance until 1169.

The weather has turned to grey and misty as we enter the walkway to the church that leads us to the hill itself. We clamber up and down hills that are really mounds that formed the Kings Seat and King Cormac’s Seat.  An aerial view shows the mounds and the trenches surrounding them which are the “hills” we are traversing.  

From the tops of these mounds it appears that you can see all the way to the Irish Sea.  Maybe not, but the view goes on forever in all directions. On top of the Royal(Kings) Seat is Tara’s royal symbol: The Lia Fail or the Stone of Destiny. The stone is said to roar when touched by the rightful king of Tara.


Some fabulous golden treasures have been found here called the Golden Torques of Tara.  They are made of twisted gold and date from about 1200 BC. The famous Tara Brooch (see picture in Dublin blog) was found in 1850 some 15 miles away from Tara at Bettystown Beach. All of these treasures are in the National Museum in Dublin.

Lia Fail: Stone of Destiny

The hill's 100 acres are too much for us to explore in the waning afternoon light.  We do pass by the Mound of the Hostages an ancient ritual and burial mound dating back to about 2500 BC.  It is under excavation and is fenced all around.  We wend our way back to the church to have a look at the grave stones.

The present church and wall date from 1822, but the very first church built here was built in the early 13th century.  You might say it was a meeting of Ancient Celtic Tara and Tara of the Christian era.

Old & New Together

Sarcophagus-like Grave Stone

I am fascinated by old grave stones and I am not disappointed.  The earliest grave stones date from the 17th century, but inside the church is a memorial stone of the local Dillon family dated 1595.  The graveyard is still used until today and is a strange mix of ancient and modern.  I especially am taken with a sarcophagus-like stone sitting in the middle of the lawn. 

Full of wonderful ancient Celtic energy we begin our way back to Dublin and my hotel. But before we leave the site we drive to one of the many ancient and holy wells on and around the Hill of Tara.  It is a strange grotto-like well with St. Brigid’s crosses hanging on the wall and other bits of tribute tied on the wire fence sealing off the entrance.

We chat about all we have seen and both agree it has been a magical day.  I have spoken about the Irish wit and how enchanted I am with it in past blogs. The wit hit again in the listing on the back of a catering van.  Take a look at this picture and see if you can see what I find to be a sample of that wit.

Catering Truck

HOOK LIGHTHOUSE WEXFORD IRELAND

Our Playshop concluded on Friday so seven of us set off with Seamus after lunch on Saturday to visit Hook Lighthouse and then stop at a ruin of a Templar church.

Hook Lighthouse

The weather was very sunny at Creacon and really quite mild, but we all knew how the weather can change close to the sea so we bundled up for the journey.

The drive took about 35 to 40 minutes wending its way through the countryside.  Again we were treated to little villages, thatch roofed cottages and peaceful pastoral scenes along our way.

It began to sprinkle but by the time we arrived at Hook the sun was shining brightly and the wind howling loudly. One of the oldest operational lighthouses in the world it has been in operation since the early 13th century. It was a major feat at the time of its construction and is a unique example of a medieval lighthouse. In fact, it is in such good repair it is difficult to imagine it has been serving sailors and shipping for 800 years.

The saying “By Hooke or by Crooke” comes from navigating the waters around this area.  Many ships have been wrecked in these waters because of the river meeting the sea here.

I filmed the sea in several places along the massive rocks on its borders.  We were warned not to go up to the water line on the rocks because it is not unusual for a rogue wave to sweep someone out to sea. 

Water Boiling into The Rocks

Spongy Grass

The grass around the grounds and leading out onto the promontory was like walking on a springy bed or couch.  I jumped up and down and it felt just like jumping on a mattress.  On further investigation I could see that the underside of the grass was a thick moss-like plant.  The grass itself was long but laid over on its side so it would never have to be mowed.

As Ellie and I walked out onto the promontory we saw a life ring in a box. There is no way that ring could save anyone from that sea.  First it is way too small and second if someone did go off the cliffs I am pretty sure they would be knocked silly on the rocks and quickly swept out to sea.

We did see a “fairy ring” in the grass. :-).

Fairy Ring

In an enclosed courtyard by the side of the lighthouse is a small labyrinth.  I didn’t see any sign telling the story of the labyrinth, but a few of our group walked it.

Templar Church Ruin

Inside the lighthouse there was a gift shop and a little snack shop. After a warm cup of tea to take off the chill of wandering around the outside of the lighthouse we set off for the ruins of the Templar church and its graveyard.

The church was very small and in a state of ruin.  Several of us ventured up the steep and narrow stone steps to the second floor.  The roof is gone, but it is evident there was a third story or maybe a bell tower as well.

Inside Second Story

After exploring the graveyard and looking at the old stones it was time to start back to Creacon.  

Old Graveyard

Along the way it began to rain and the sun was still shining.  All of a sudden we spied a double rainbow.  Seamus stopped the van at the first opportunity and we all but fell out of the van in our excitement to try to get a photo. The rainbow left as fast as it came so no photo for me!  You'll just have to take my word for it :-)

Creacon New Ross Ireland Workshop

CREACON NEW ROSS IRELAND WORKSHOP

Yes, this is my second journey to Ireland in just a few months.  This time I am attending a workshop or “Playshop”as my teacher, Stephanie Azaria, calls it. Fifteen of us gather from all over the world to learn about a new Astrology called Cosmic Astrology.  This form of astrology uses a clock format going clockwise instead of the houses going counterclockwise. It is much more complex than that, but suffice it to say it is a tool to help us move into the new vibration of the earth with an understanding of who we are, what we need to work on, and how we can help ourselves and others to move forward in this ever fast changing world with little or no fear. To learn more about this type of astrology go to Stephanie’s website at www.thecosmicpath.com

I arrive in Dublin on an overnight flight from Newark, New Jersey.  On my flight are 10 others attending the Playshop.  We are met and transported by Seamus and another van driver to make the 2 1/2 hour journey south to New Ross and Creacon.  We pass through the ever changing weather and countryside so familiar to me from my recent journey.  This time, however, I can look around since I am not the driver. 

The Irish countryside never ceases to make me feel warm, joyous, and glad to be there.  It is so pastural and welcoming.  Cows graze, goats and sheep munch and horses play. We pass through one quaint village after another.

Nicholas is in our van.  He is an old hand at Creacon and Cosmic Astrology.  He is one of the 12 people who developed this method and so the questions are many and the discussion interesting and lively.

At last we arrive at Creacon. Now, I am no expert on Ashrams. I have only read about them in a limited amount in books and articles so my view of Creacon may be a bit distorted.  Derek O’Neill, the founder of Creacon, has studied extensively with Sai Baba of India in Ashrams there.  Thus Creacon is set up Ashram-like.

Creacon courtyard

I am greeted by Marcella and Michelle like a long lost friend.  Indeed, it great to see them again.  They immediately ask about Catherine and tell me to say hello to her for them.  I knew before leaving that I will be sharing a room; maybe even up to two roommates.  Having had my own space while traveling for so long, I had to create a positive picture in my mind what that might be like.  I was set!

My room is the green room (they all have colors for names). The green room has two bunk beds, a desk, dresser and two night stands.  Its private bath is huge and almost as big as the room itself. The bath houses a generous wardrobe and a combo bath tub/shower.

There are 4 of us sharing the room.  Three of us are in the playshop and the fourth is there on a three week retreat program. We range in age from 24 to 69 (me). The two bottom bunks are taken so Mariana and I, the last to arrive, choose our top bunks.  The beds are metal, not wood and they shake a lot with any movement.

I have visions of hauling myself up and down the ladder for my nightly one to three time visits to the john.  I offer all of them ear plugs since I am told I snore.  I warn my bunk mate, Nancy, of my numerous trips during the night and hope I will not be too disturbing to her.  I unpack and settle in. By the end of the week I have more defined muscles in my arms and stronger legs.  Maybe I’ll get a bunk bed for home and sleep on the top bunk!!!

We have the rest of the day free to wander, rest and relax and get to know one another.  Lunch is at 1 and dinner at 6.  Breakfast is the only meal with leeway for time of attendance - 8:30 to 9:30.  We must be in bed by 10PM with noise kept to nothing or at least a minimum. At all times we are expected to keep our voices down and doors closed quietly.  There are rules and discipline to Creacon - Ashramish.  This is fine, just different.  At one point Stephanie encourages us to eat a meal in complete silence so we can see how that helps us pay attention to the nourishment entering our bodies.  It really is a calming and wonderful experience.

On Monday we begin our playshop.  I have brought colored stole-like ribbons with beads and crystals hanging on the ends for us to wear during the sessions.  Mariana has brought bracelets.  Each hour of the clock representing a month has a color vibration attached to it.  Stephanie provided Mariana and I with the colors and numbers to make.

I am not going to go any further into the playshop because it needs a whole book to explain.  Just let me say that it was very enlightening, innovative and FUN!

The road leading past Creacon

As the week progresses I get the opportunity to sit and chat with almost everyone in attendance. I take walks with Nancy, my bunk mate and Daniella, a lawyer from Spain.  We walk the country roads around Creacon breathing in the fresh air and letting the calming effect of the surrounding pastures and animal life fill us.  We get to know a little about each other.

Look at that blue sky!

When we called they all gathered

Nancy is from Washington State and has a farm.  She works as the Washington State University’s small farms and local food coordinator.  She is 7 years younger than I and is in the middle of Chemo Therapy for a reoccurrence of breast cancer.  She has written a book about her experiences with her cancer and is called upon to council other women in her situation.

she let us pet her

I am humbled and warmed by her kindness, enthusiasm, and strength.  

I feel that we will form a new and lasting friendship.

Daniella works for the Spanish government as a lawyer.  She has not been paid in a year.  They say there is no money to pay her and her colleagues, but they still have money for bonuses and drugs for the higher ups.  She and some of her colleagues are staring a grassroots movement to stop the unfairness of the situation.  She is fiery and committed to her cause.  She says she is so fiery because she is half Sicilian!  We talk about how to go about the reform movement from a place of love instead of anger.  I suggest ways to create slogans from a positive perspective with positive sayings.

Derek arrives on Monday evening and the energy changes dramatically.  He is a force of nature, yet every person’s person.  He gives a private discourse for us.  His wisdom and insight is inspiring.  He will be there through Wednesday night when he will give his monthly discourse to the public.

Creacon begins to fill up and by Wednesday it is filled to capacity (40). Then there are people who come in for just dinner and the discourse so that by that night there are at least 60 people in attendance.  No chance of a quiet meal that night!  It is very different from when it was just Cat and I staying there.

I have two fabulous treatments.  One is acupuncture with the purpose of the releasing of anger and guilt and suppressed emotions that even I am unaware I still hold.  Very cleansing, but also enlightening.  I realize that I still have a ways to go before I have let go of everything and get on with filling myself up with love.  The other is a 2 hour massage where she concentrates on balancing the feminine and masculine in me.  Wonderful!

On Saturday I arrange an outing for 7 of us to visit the Hook Lighthouse and stop at the ruins of a Templar church. That experience will be in the next blog:-)

It is time to say good-bye to Creacon and all the new people I have met.  We speak about getting together again at Mount Shasta in the late summer/early fall.  I look forward to that.

I leave knowing more about myself than I did before.  That journey will never end, I am sure.  I have one more day in Dublin and I have arranged for Seamus to take me out to New Grange and The Hill of Tara.  More about that in my final blog about this adventure.

Much Love To You All,

Mom/Grandma/Sara

Final Ireland 2011

It is home from our fabulous, fun and magical journey to the Emerald Isle we are but I have a few more tales to tell.

Cat asked me why I didn’t tell you about her escapades out with the Irish folks on Friday and Saturday nights.  It isn’t my tale to tell, but she wants me to and so I will.

Saturday 11/11/11 after the meditation I was wiped.  So many wonderful experiences in that hour left me needing sleep.  After getting back to the hotel, I crashed.  About 1900 Cat said she was hungry and was going down  to dinner.  I told her to have fun.  Little did I know how much she would have!

About an hour after she left I hear lots of guys yelling and hooting like they do when they are watching sports and their team is winning.  Then I hear one woman’s voice - Cat!  After a while the shouting is over and I realize the match is over.  I go to sleep and wake about 0200.  Still no Cat.  About 0330 or so in she strolls!  She hooked up with some of the guys watching the match and they took her to another pub and then to a club or two for dancing.  She met some women at the dance club too so she hung out with them and the guys all night.

One of the guys walked her back to her hotel to make sure she arrived safely.  When she came in she was all excited about her night.  She loves the Irish anyway and this solidified it.  She had a ball and had made some fast friends.  She already was communicating with them on Facebook!

The next night she and I ate dinner downstairs.  After dinner she got to talking with some guys by the bar and we ended up having great chats.  However, I was still not ready to party all night and anyway It just didn’t feel right running around with the 20 to 30 crowd.  She told me later that the dance club was patronized by people of all ages including mine:-).  I guess in a small town with only so many places to go everyone goes where the action is.  And the Irish can party, no doubt about that.

When she arrived back at the hotel at 0230 (she got home early because we were to leave at 0700 for Dublin!). She, once again, had had a great time.  She met up with the women and some of the men from the night before and danced until all hours.  Again another of the men walked her back to the hotel to make sure she got home safely.  She was quite impressed with that.  They were fascinated with the fact that she is an American redhead.  They had never met one before.  

It seems that Kenmare is full of single, really good looking, late 20’s to early 30’s single guys.  This is the place to be if you want to grab a husband, it appears.  The men appear to outnumber the women in that age category.   Also, the legal drinking age is 18 so there are many men under 21 as well :-).

Sunday night 11/13 we spent in the bar at the Hilton Hotel at the airport watching the SF Niners beat the Giants in a nail biter.  There is a station that televises two American football games each Sunday and one of the teams was the niners!  How fun!  

Our flight was at 0545 and the shuttle to the airport at 0400.  The game was over at 12:30, I was up at 0245.  After checking in at the airport we headed out to find the BMI lounge.  At our gate I stopped an airport employee and asked Do you know where the BMI lounge is located?  Yes, he replied- silence.  Well, I prompted, can you tell me where it is?  Well, he said with a twinkle in his eye, that is a whole other question!  I LOVE the Irish wit.

To finish I thought I would offer some tips for traveling in Ireland and Europe in general:

1. There are now toll roads that make traveling through the Republic of Ireland much faster.  In the past only Northern Ireland had them.  The back side of this is that you don’t go through the quaint small towns and villages.
2. If you have a GPS with European maps, update it.  It did cause some frustration with getting around using my outdated GPS maps.  
3. The Dublin Pass is a great deal.  It offers entry into most of the major sites many of which have a fast track lane.  In the National Museums that are free it offers discount shopping.
4. The Hop on Hop off Bus pass is great too.  Get the Dublin Bus one as it also allows you to travel on the public bus system for free and has a free bus from the airport into Dublin and from there you can catch a public bus to anywhere you need to be.
5. I took too many warm and bulky clothes.  The weather was chilly but not that cold.  Lighter layers would have been a better choice.  You’d think I’d know that by now!!!  If the weather says in the 50’s F, lighter layers will work fine.  Southern Ireland is warmer and more temperate than the north.  Take a raincoat, one with a removable lining is ideal, and umbrella.  It rains 12 months out of the year.  
6. Frequent the local pubs for food.  Ours was fantastic.  Gone are the days of the bland Irish fare.
7. American Express platinum card charges no transaction fee and no conversion fee.  They also use the bank rate of conversion so we got the best rate by using that card.
8. As in all cases when traveling internationally, use the ATM machines to get cash.  You will get the best exchange rate.  Check with your bank before leaving to see what they charge for fees.  I find that my credit union is the best, charging only 1%.
9. When shopping, ask for a VAT tax refund receipt.  Some shops even take the amount of the refund off your purchase and then trust you will put their form into the box at the airport so they get refunded.  The VAT tax that is added to everything and embedded in the price you see is 21%.  You get 17% of that back.  This applies to all sales no matter how small.  However, if you purchase one item amounting to 2,000 Euro or more you will have to go to the Customs desk at the airport to get a stamp and you MAY have to have the item with you.  Otherwise you can choose to go to a manned VAT Tax return desk or drop your filled out forms in a collection box.
10. You have 3 months to export your items from Ireland and get back the VAT.  However, if you leave Ireland and then mail in your forms, you will have to fill out a form, have it notarized and then mail it back, so take care of it before you leave.
11. Remember petrol is priced by the liter, not gallon so be prepared to spend about equivalent of $10.00 to $12.00 per our gallon!!!  If you can manage a manual transmission and shifting with your left hand, you will get a better rental price and gas mileage.
12. If you are flying UNITED out of Europe, you will need to get an extra stamp on your passport from security at the GATE.  This is only if you are flying UNITED and not Lufthansa.  I do not know if American and Delta do the same, but be prepared to stand in a LONG line at the gate to get this done.  This should apply only to connecting flights in the EU since the check in counter attendants should take care of it at the time of check in if you are going directly to the US from your first airport of departure and not connecting in the EU.  It applies only to your last point of departure from the EU.  
13. All flights within the EU are considered domestic flights and are treated as such.  If you are in transit for a flight stateside, keep your passport handy as you will have to show it more than once.
14. If you are thinking of bringing back liquor from the EU, check the prices at home before you leave.  We found that the duty free price was less expensive than in the country, but not compared to prices at home.  This is caused by the unfavorable exchange rate of dollar to euro.  The same applies to perfume and makeup.  
15. Don’t want to drive, but don’t want to take a formal tour?  Look into the bus systems and train within the country.  There are buses that leave from Dublin downtown and from the airport to many points in Ireland.  There are trains from Dublin Heusten station to the south.  Google works for tracking this information down.  Then when you get to your destination you can take a local tour or hire a car and driver.
16. If you have an iPhone or Droid download the free App called Tango and then have your friends and family who have these phones do the same.  With this app you can make FREE VIDEO or audio calls to home and they can call you free also.

Last but not least here is the video of the tree cutting incident in Kenmare.  The internet was too slow to download it in Ireland.  Enjoy!

Meditation Stone Circle, Ireland 11-11-11

Howling wind and pelting rain greet me this morning, but I am feeling calm, almost too calm.  Cat and I are prepared for this weather by bringing our raincoats, plastic ponchos, gloves, hats, boots, warm socks and those silver “blankets” you see at football games.  We will not be deterred by the weather.

Arriving at the site of the stone circle called Uragh, we stay in the car until it is closer to the time of the meditation.  As we are sitting there we notice a little red car approaching and wonder if it is one of the locals or if it is coming to the circle.  Soon it arrives and parks next to us.  There is one passenger, a man.  He gets out of his car and pulls warm gear out of the trunk of his car.  After donning his gear, he nods at us and strides up the winding trail leading to the circle.  It is now 10:40.

We wait a few more minutes, get out of the car and begin to don our plastic ponchos.  The wind is so intense it is almost impossible to get them on, but we finally mange and begin our trek up the hill against the wind.

We make it to the top and see the man standing up against the tall stone sheltering from the worst of the wind.  Up here on the hill the wind is even stronger.  We find out later that it was blowing gusts of up to 55 miles per hour!  

I approach him and say “I’m going to ask a silly question - are you here for the Fire The Grid Meditation?  He smiles and acknowledges that he is. Then he helps me get settled on the ground with my silver blanket that threatens to blow away at any moment.  I offer to share some of it with him, but he says he’d rather stand.

Cat positions herself inside the circle with him and me up against the tall stone.  He asks if it is O.K. if he opens some gates (meaning gates in the universe) and I reply that it is.  Then I ask if I can play the special music given by the people of the light for this day and he accepts.

We spend the next hour each in our own meditation in the howling wind and occasional rain shower.  The wind blows like crazy and then we have a moment of calm.  The skies vary from completely socked in to periods of bright blue peeking through.  The sun never shines where we are, but does make the far away hills glow with golden light for a short time.

I give thanks for the cleansing wind and rain.

Most of the time my eyes are closed and I have too many visions to share them all here.  At one point the golden glow behind my lids is so bright I could swear the sun is shining through them.  The top of my head feels like the sun is beating down, but the sky is dark and grey.  I see swirls of violet, gold and white.  At another time a golden cross hovers, shimmering and pulsating.  Then it changes into a figure that dances and moves so gracefully that it brings tears to my eyes.  In another vision I see angels hovering over us and around us in all of their white and bright splendor.

 

From the vantage point of an astronaut I see the earth  covered with light coming up from under the surface.  In the universe around me golden light rains down to meet the light from the earth.  That’s a small part of the journeys I take during that hour.  I feel a great love and joy radiating out from my heart into the earth and then the sky then two great shudders rack my body as if I am given something back in return.

After the hour is over we all make our way back down to the car, the man is first.  When Cat and I reach the cars he is standing waiting for us.  We learn that he is from Switzerland, just found out about this circle and decided to be there today.  I thank him for being there and make the statement that 3 is the number of manifestation.  There is somewhat of a balance of feminine and masculine energy with his presence.  He is glad we are there too as he usually meditates with a small group in Switzerland instead of alone.

After he leaves, Cat and I decide to go up the hill from the ring to see the famine hut that supposedly is up there.  The road turns into a path- a slippery path.  We make it to the top and drive through into the car park, but decide not to go further, turn around and start back down the path when we meet a truck pulling a trailer coming up.  They want me to back up - HA!  In the best of times my backing up is tenuous let alone up an uphill slippery path.  I ask if one of them can back it up for me.

One of the other men gets out, I follow the older guy up the hill as my car is backed up with speed and accuracy.  The man asks where we are from and I tell him.  He asks what we are up the lane for.  I say to go to the famine hut.  He gestures at the slippery lane and says “You are a brave woman” :-).

These men are the sheep herders and have been out shearing their sheep.  In the trailer are bundles of freshly shorn wool some of it sticking out all fluffy and soft looking.

The rest of the afternoon is spent driving part of the rugged coast roads of the Ring of Beara.  We see the sign for another stone circle and investigate that one.  Instead of up on a hill as most are, this one is in the middle of a pasture at the bottom of a hill that is covered with boulders and giant rocks.  The moving glaciers during the melting of the ice age sure dropped some major stuff in this area.

We find a place called Josie’s that is open for lunch.  Cat has a sandwich and I have Irish stew.  The stew is delicious but I am feeling strange from the morning and can’t eat most of it.  I just want to sleep. 

From our window table we can see the water and massive hills surrounding it.  The wind is coming from all directions like a vortex.  It whips the water up into the air and blows the pampas grass almost to the ground. One major hill to the right is covered with trees and bare patches that are shaped like molten lava pouring down the side. The colors are muted dark greens, blacks, light and dark gold brown and dark purple. The other hills at the left are barren of trees, but have what appears to be low vegetation.  It is wild, beautiful and spellbinding.

We decide to make our way back to Kenmare before it gets dark.  The drive back is uneventful until we get almost into the town.  Cat says, “Mom, there’s a tree across the road!  Sure enough there is and it is blocking both lanes.  It is a huge tree that has fallen over due to the soft earth from the rain and, I’m sure, the wind.  What to do?

There are cars following me and we all just sit there for a moment.  Then the man in the car behind gets out and Cat gets out.  Just at that moment one of the trucks that was in line behind us pulls up in the right lane (remember we are driving on the left), opens his side door, reaches in and pulls out a chain saw!!!  He fires it up and proceeds to cut branches that are covering the road making a “tunnel” for us and those approaching from the other way, to get through.  Well, maybe not the big bus!  Cat and the man in the car behind us help pull the branches off the road.

In the states it would have been calls to the road crews and hours of waiting until the problem was solved.  I thanked him profusely and said an angel was watching over and sent him to help.  He grins from ear to ear.  Still don’t know the fate of the bus.

Since the lunch was a late one, no dinner for me tonight.