Dearest Family and Friends,
Standing on the deck watching as we arrive in Sierra Leone I am struck by the differences of the Freetown skyline from the other countries we have visited. Down at the very edge of the water are what appear to be hovels made of wood. At first they just look like part of a brown hill leading up from the edge of the ocean. It would seem that any wave of any significance would just wash them away. As my eye travels up the hill more permanent structures appear and finally the tall sky scrapers fill the sky. It is obviously a densely populated city.
We pass the hospital ship from Mercy Ships. On her hull it says Africa Mercy which leads me to believe that she makes a certain circuit around the African Continent. This also tells me that medical care is probably lacking.
Today we are taking a tour of Freetown and most of us are continuing on to the Tacugama Chimp Sanctuary. We are warned that the traffic in Freetown is the worst we have seen and that we might be held up in stopped traffic for hours. This is no exaggeration. The upside of this slow go is that there is plenty of time to take in the very colorful sights.
This is a true city with shops lining the streets and people of both Islamic, Christian, and other faiths wandering by. I can see the obvious difference in the dress of the different faiths. The streets are narrow and cannot handle the traffic of 1.9 million (the new consensus has it at 5 million still yet to be confirmed). I look down the side streets where the are more people than cars. Even in Cairo, a city of 15 million, the density of people per square meter is less than here.
Our guide tells us that the average government worker makes $100 per month and in the private sector the average is $150.00 per month. When asked the cost of renting a two bedroom apartment she replies $1,000. We’re thinking per month when after a pause she says per year. Still at $80+ a month that eats up most of the workers salaries. Sadly, the illiteracy rate is 60%.
Sierra Leone had 10 years of civil war that was one of the most bloody and terrible wars in Africa. Peace finally came in 2002, but the war left many orphaned and maimed inhabitants. We pass some amputees alongside the street. As our bus is stopped in traffic a woman approaches the window holding up both arms to show us her missing hands. During the war the educated and professional people fled to other countries and even 9 years later have not, in any numbers, returned.
Our first stop is Freedom Plaza erected after the war. As we approach the plaza we see creatures flying in great numbers in and around a large tree. Marius identifies them as the Straw Fruit Bat. Once we debus they can be seen and heard when we walk under their tree. When they land they bunch up very close to each other. It is so interesting I stand and watch them.
Freedom Plaza is very inspirational and has many colorful sculptures and murals throughout. There is a mural of the Amistad ship. If you have not seen the movie Amistad, you should rent it. Sierra Leone’s slaving history began when, in 1560, Sir John Hawkins started the American slave trade in Freetown.
Across the street is the small National Museum. There are very graphic pictures of some of the atrocities of the recent war. Once I realize what they are I cannot look and wander off to other rooms. Much to my delight one of the rooms contains quite a selection of the Mende women’s masks that Roz spoke of in her lecture. It is wonderful to see them in person.
We crawl through the streets once more on our way out of the city and to Lumley Beach where we stop at the Atlantic Beach Bar for refreshments, beach shopping and a dip in the ocean. We are greeted by a band playing drums, symbol type instruments, and gourds with beads and strings shaken to the rhythm of the beat.
The band follows us inside and begins to entertain us even further with jugglers, fire eaters, and dancers. At the same time vendors have set up their wares on the beach just on the other side of the short wall that separates the pavilion from the beach. There are beads, carved figures and masks, shirts, caftans, and cloth. I find another piece here for Marge.
Next is lunch where we will meet with the newly appointed American Ambassador to Sierra Leone, Michael Owen. The tables are set up on a covered pavilion by the pool. The chairs have white satin covers and the tables are covered with white linen. Very elegant. As I sit in the chair the satin covering only goes so far down and for a brief moment I am suspended, the satin acting as a hammock for my butt. Then, slowly, it lowers me to the seat of the chair. I am one of the first to sit and it is really funny to see the looks on the other faces as they sit and get “hammocked”.
In his speech the Ambassador confirms my suspicions that medical care is severely lacking. Most of the doctors fled during the war, and science facilities were completely destroyed. There is one psychiatrist in the whole country and he is 77 years old. There are only a couple dozen doctors and 1 in 8 women die in child birth.
He is optimistic, however, and feels that the situation is improving. Professionals who left are now contacting him about coming back and asking what they can do to help. He has arranged for the Peace Corps to start activities here again and to send 90 teachers.
I am struck with the difference between Ghana and here. Ghana has had peace for the same amount of time and is light years ahead of the Sierra Leone in bouncing back. My guess is that Ghana did not lose the same number of professionals and was in a completely different place politically at the start of their war.
Those of us who are going to the Chimp Sanctuary leave after lunch for that destination. We were told that it is a very steep climb for about 150 yards up the hill to the sanctuary. Maybe there will be a small number of 4X4 vehicles to drive a small number of people up the hill.
Once again, this is no exaggeration. The only other “hill” I have climbed that is steeper than this one is the steep side of the Great Wall of China. The difference is that the wall incline was paved and this hill is not. To say I feel a great sense of accomplishment to have made it to the top without slipping and sliding all over the place is an understatement.
At the top we are given a short explanation about this sanctuary and what they are trying to accomplish. Chimpanzees are still being killed for bush meat and shipped off to be sold as pets in other parts of the world. Both of these activities are illegal. Thus these are rescued chimps from these activities.
The goal is to eventually release them back into the wild, but that has not happened as yet and in reality and for various reasons will probably be impossible. However, there have been escapees 4 of whom are still at large.
The first chimp we see is a baby about 18 months old being held by his keeper. He is very curious about us and moves his head side to side like a belly dancer. He is precious and mimics head movements he sees.
We pass cages where some are kept in quarantine for one reason or another, but the majority of them are in large areas so they can play and go about chimp business.
Part of that chimp business is throwing huge rocks at the observers. There are nets covering the target areas and sure enough one chimp climbs to the top of a bare tree with rocks in his mouth. He perches on the top of the tree, takes aim and fires off the first rock which hits the net with a good deal of force. So much so that we instinctively jump back. Then he lets go of the second one and it too hits the mark. After that he turns his back and sticks his behind up in the air mooning us. Hmmmmm - I get the idea that he may not like to be stared at.
Soon I hear screaming from across the platform and go over to investigate. Below is a huge chimp with a grey beard and a black face. I had no idea they can get so big. There are a few other chimps there and soon more and more begin to come out of the trees. At last I notice hidden down below two men throwing food into the compound. Aha! - feeding time. The big guy walks over to the fence and holds out his hands wanting the care takers to throw the food into his hands, and they do. It is beneath him to scrounge on the ground for his food as the others are doing.
This time as we slog our way through traffic we are led by two policemen on one motor bike. No siren just a waving of the arms and miracle of miracle the cars move over. At one point one of the men gets off of the bike and is running ahead of the motorcycle waving the traffic off to one side. Then I begin to hear a siren behind us. I am hoping it is our rear guard and not some poor soul in an ambulance trying to get to the hospital ship.
There are some white knuckle moments as we race along rounding curves trusting that the traffic will obey the police, but we make it back to the ship safely and in good time. Tired and hot, my day ends with me holding wonderful memories of yet another exotic destination .
Much Love To You All,
Mom/Grandma/Sara
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