MARCH BONFIRES

SIERRA LEONE 2014

So far I have attended two bonfires: one in Pejuhn and one in Bombali.  I was scheduled to attend a third in Koinadugu, but the logistics of where I was staying, the fact we were down to one vehicle up country and Micheala’s need to go to Freetown for a few days made it impossible for me to attend.  I was very disappointed, but understood the logistics.

In the meantime I am staying at Lamtec II Guest House where I stayed last time and where Mohamed, a young

Mohamed My African Grandson

man who has become a dear friend, is the manager.  We are having great chats and catching up with news in each of our lives.

My first bonfire in Pujehun took place on March 9 and 10 in the Kpanga-Krim Chiefdom, Pemagbie Section, Baiama Village.  All the participants from every village in the section were in attendance.  There were hundreds of people there getting ready for the ceremony milling about a raging fire when we arrived.

It was decided we would arrive at the time the bonfire was starting and make known as little of our presence as possible.  As a white person I stand out (duh!!!), so I wore dark clothes and covered my hair.  Not because of safety concerns, but to make myself as incognito as possible.  The bonfire is a safe space Fambul Tok creates to allow victims and perpetrators to comfortably testify and confess.   I do not wish to compromise that space by my presence.

We left the cars parked at the edge of the village away from the bonfire and walked quietly into the site where we stopped in the back separated from the crowd.  It was a gibbous moon making it harder to hide in the nonexistent shadows!

The local tribal “devil” and another character were in elaborate masked costumes made of long raffia fibers that covered every inch.  They were performing a ritual dance and encouraging the crowd to join in.  I wish I could have taken a picture of the “devil” headdress as it was unlike any I have seen so far.  It shone gold, red, and blue in the flickering light of the fire that highlighted the varying heights of the spires jutting up from the crown.

Once the crowd settled there was a short summary of the purpose of the evening and introductions made of the RC and OC committees, the bench to seat those testifying or accusing was brought forth and placed in front of the bonfire.

Few participated at this event.  One son asked for forgiveness of his father for a recent transgression.  This is unusual because the evening is for war related issues.  The father did not forgive the son saying he lied and now must prove himself by his actions.

Finally a man sits down and begins to tell his story.  He and his brother own a diamond mine.  During the war his brother extracted diamonds, sold them and disappeared with the money.

He has put a curse on the mine and no diamonds have been found since.  He says he will lift the curse if his brother will ask for forgiveness and be willing to work side by side again.  His bother comes forward stating he knows he was wrong asking for forgiveness.  Forgiveness is granted and the curse lifted.  I want to know if diamonds will be found again.  I have a feeling the biggest one yet is waiting!

I found this gathering a bit disappointing as the crowd seems to have missed the point of the bonfire space.  Micheala and I decide proper quality sensitization was missing.  This district team is new and still learning and while they spent many hours with the OC members and the villagers, it is evident they need further training.  It is decided one of the HQ staff will accompany them during the next series of village sensitization sessions in preparation for the next bonfire scheduled for 10 days in the future.

One of the members of the media heard many people in the crowd stating they will approach the RC members in the coming days.  They did not feel comfortable speaking in front of the group.  While there is always a faction of those who wish to wait, there was an unusual number at this gathering.  If the proper sensitization is conducted that creates the safe space, more will participate.  In the end the desire of the people to dance overrode the testifying.

The second bonfire took place on March 13 and 14 in Bombali District, Pakimasabong Chiefdom, Kathekeyan Section, Kabarka Village.  As before we arrived after

Taking A Break From Testifying

most all were there.  This village was much smaller than the last so the car had to park very close to the action.  Because of this Micheala and I stayed in the car for quite awhile before approaching from around a grass hut and seated ourselves behind and off to the side.

This district team is more experienced.  The team leader not only introduced the RC/OC members, he also recognized each of the villages in attendance having them stand when called.  He then used some of the key points of the OC/RC training to further put the crowd at ease and reinforce the feeling of a safe space.  I thought this was extremely clever of him and very effective.

When the bench was brought forward here it was immediately full and more benches has to be brought to handle the people waiting their turn to testify.  One after another participants rose to tell their story of atrocities conducted against them or members of their family during the war.  Some of the stories were very graphic and gruesome.

I became a little confused because it seemed there were only victims testifying and, except for one person, they were not accusing or naming the perpetrators.  I motioned for Joseph to come over and asked him why this was.  He explained that in this area there are mostly victims.  The perpetrators came from the outside and when the war was over they either stayed in Freetown or went back to the villages of their origin.  The victims didn’t know the names of those who acted against them and their families.

Amazingly enough these stories have never been told.  It seems the victims were too traumatized and didn’t trust anyone to accept they played no part in what happened to them.  Thus they kept their stories hidden inside for 13 or more years!  One victim, a woman, stated she was very eager to tell her story in the safe space Fambul Tok provides and was so glad to unburden herself at last (this was one of the more gruesome stories) so she could finally live her life again.

Joseph said the victims are asked if they could confront the perpetrators would they be able to forgive them if forgiveness was asked.  They all said yes with no hesitation.

All this time I thought that the scenario was one of victims and perpetrators living side by side in the same villages.  While this is true in some areas, I now understand there are many different circumstances, but the outcome is the same; a unity and healing is achieved.  It is also made clear to me that the bonfire is not the end but truly the beginning of the healing process.

I slept on a “native” bed that evening which was like sleeping on a bumpy floor. A few hours into my slumber I heard a knock on the door and a soft voice calling me.  I opened the door to Adama, one of the FT district staff members.  It seems they needed a container of palm wine stored under the bed!

Same Devil As Last Year

Indeed when I woke at 7 the party was still going on.  I could hear drumming and singing and as I entered the area I spied another type of devil performing a dance.  I had seen a devil like this in another village in Bombali in 2012.  This tribe is Limbe as was the other one.  Thus the same devil costume. 

Because we had to leave early in the morning after each bonfire, I have yet to witness the “ancestor” or “healing” ceremony the day after.  I am promised that will happen in the future.

Much Love To You All,

Mom/Grandma Syrup/Sara