Monday, September 24, 2012


EGYPT SEPTEMBER 21, 2012

AHHHH!  The smell of Cairo.  There is nothing like it anywhere else on earth.  I happen to love the smell and I drink it in as I leave the terminal to meet Hassan. It is so wonderful to be here; my soul sings.  Even before the plane landed I could not keep the wide grin off of my face.

After visiting the bank window to buy my visa and change some money, I am ready to tackle the line for customs. Going through customs is the most organized I can remember and I am out even before my second bag makes it’s appearance!  Then the realization hit.  The reason it is so organized is because there are no large groups of tourists led by their tour leaders to get through the lines.  There are a few of us scattered here and there, but the lines consists of mostly locals. In the past more than one plane arrived at the same time disgorging many passengers all at once. Tonight it is only my British Air flight. Sad.

As I walk the hall to get to the outside door I am approached several times with the offer of transportation.  La shoukran (no thank you). Hassan is nowhere in sight so I text him that I have arrived and am outside of terminal 1.

It is then a young man approaches me asking if I need a ride.  La shoukran.  But he insists that he can be of service.  I explain someone is picking me up who is a friend of almost 20 years and I always stay with him and his family.  Where does he live?  I have to confess I don’t really know the address.  What section of the city? I don’t really know.  He is shocked.  Give me the number and I will call him.  I do, he does and Hassan explains he has accidentally driven to the wrong terminal!  

Now Cairo airport is not like others.  If you go to the wrong terminal, it is not just a matter of driving around from one to the other.  No, you must go out and around through convoluted ways to achieve your goal, so I know it will be a few minutes before Hassan arrives.  Once the young man knew all was well, he gave me his card and walked away without even asking for a tip for his services! It is customary to give baksheesh (a tip) for any services given, thus my surprise.

Soon I spy Hassan hurrying over to me.  He always picks his groups up from Egypt Air and his car just automatically drove to terminal three.  We have a good laugh over that as we pull my luggage to his car.  As we approach the car a figure gets out.  It is Zayed and in the 2 1/2 years since last I saw him he has shot up to tower over his father.  He is only 14, but he is fast becoming a young man.

Safaa greets us at the door.  Her face is lit up with a huge smile as is mine.  I am home.

Since it is well past midnight by this time, the house is quiet.  Hossam has a big day tomorrow; he starts university!  Doaa is also asleep and soon Zayed goes to bed as well.  Hassan, Safaa and I stay up and chat.

The foremost topic on my mind is the political situation as Hassan sees it.  He is not happy about who is leading the country now.  There seem to be two factions in Egypt, those who want the more conservative regime and those who feel it will cripple the country. The new regime is not paying any attention to tourism or trying to improve the unemployment situation.

Hassan hasn’t worked since February 2011 and, as you can imagine, money is tight.  He was supposed to have two groups coming up in October and November, but after the unrest caused by the inflammatory film against Islam, they were cancelled. He is hoping January will bring in groups again.

The sad thing is, Egypt’s demonstrations over the film are over and were contained in one area. The groups would have been fine to be here. 

I am told there is more petty crime now, but it is felt they are caused by the fact many prisoners were released by the ruling party that should not have been and the severe downturn in the economy are the causes.

Hassan and I will travel to Sakarra, the famous “step” Pyramid and first one built by Imenhotep, on Tuesday to visit two new tombs that have just recently opened and the reopening of the Serapium.  The Serapium is where the sacred bulls are entombed and is a massive place.  1995 was my last visit because it has been closed ever since. 

One of the newly opened tombs is of Ptah-hotep a high priest/vizer of Sakarra.  I am excited to see everything! 

Much Love To You All,
Mom/Grandma/Sara

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