NEWGRANGE AND HILL OF TARA, COUNTY MEATH, IRELAND

When Catherine and I were in Dublin last November taking a tour of St Michens’ small underground “catacombs”, we met a very interesting young lady.  Among many other enticing tidbits I remember one that struck my fancy.  She said if we liked St. Michens, we had to go see Newgrange, an ancient burial place. 

Thinking Newgrange was close by Cat and I decided it sounded like a good idea. Upon researching it, however, we found it was too far outside of Dublin for us to fit into our schedule. Thus I decided I would stay an extra day in Dublin before I was to come home from my “Playshop” at Creacon. 

Seamus, our van driver, agreed to stay up in Dublin when he brought us back from Creacon to our hotels and come get me on the following day to take the journey to Newgrange about 35 to 40 minutes outside of Dublin in County Meath.

The night before our adventure I researched County Meath and found that there are many wonderful ancients sites there.  Newgrange is one of three burial sites in the same area.  It is the largest of the three in size but held the least number of burials.  The other two, Knowth and Dowth are barely visible from Newgrange.  Only Knowth is open to the public and only from May through September. Among other treasures found in County Meath is the Hill of Tara.

That site caught my eye because it was the seat of Kings both in pre-historic and historic times.  It also caught my eye because of the Sister Fidelma books by Peter Tremayne (fiction based on historical facts) about an Irish nun and an advocate of the ancient law courts of Ireland during the mid-seventh century. She solved all kinds of crimes in that area.  She was also the sister of the High King and he ruled from Tara. My son Scott and daughter-in-law Sarah introduced me to these books. Anyway, nothing would do but to add that site to the next day’s adventures.

At the appointed time of 0930 I met Seamus in the lobby and off we went into the bright sunny day (yes, I am sure I was in Ireland!), out of Dublin and into County Meath.  The road signs are not the greatest and we got a bit lost partly because of that and partly because we were chatting away like old lost friends.  As we drove back from whence we came, I suddenly spied a green mound with a bright white front.  There it was, Newgrange and what an imposing sight it was. 

Front of Newgrange

Seamus had never been there and it seemed silly for him to wait for me like some chauffeur so I bought two tickets.  He was a great companion and very interested in learning all he could about the site.

While we were waiting for our allotted time to catch the bus from the visitor’s center to the mound itself we toured a small exhibit and watched a short film about the discovery.  We speculated about the symbols found on the kerb stones of the monuments and what they might mean.

Newgrange and her distant neighbors are still shrouded in mystery. The bodies were all cremated and there are no documents or pictographs telling the story behind these ancient sites. They do know it dates back to the Neolithic age in 3200 BC which makes it older than Stonehenge and older than the great Pyramid at Giza!!! Never did I think I would ever enter anything older than the pyramids.

Opening for Solstice Sun and Carved Kerb Stone

It is constructed as a cairn composed of 200,000 tons of rock and dirt. A small opening over the main doorway lets the sun shine in and flood the inner chamber with light on the Winter Solstice in ancient times as well in modern times. 

Ancient Standing Stones

It is time for us to catch our bus and the short ride to the site.  We are let off at the foot of a hill that leads to the small building where we turn in our tickets and we can buy post cards.  Newgrange sits on the top of the hill some distance away.  It’s quartz rock facade sparkles in the sun and the emerald green grass on top is a sharp contrast to the cerulean blue sky. There are ancient standing stones that are so prevalent at other ancient sites in Ireland, England, Scotland and Wales on the grounds in front.

Side of Newgrange 

I could gaze on this site forever, but it is time to walk up the hill and go inside.  In front of the entrance is a huge carved kerb stone. To gain entrance in ancient times it was necessary to climb over the stone and move aside the very heavy stone covering the doorway. Wooden staircases have been built to the side to allow and up and over access to the area in front of the entrance to the passage leading to the inner chamber.

We are told that it is a low and narrow passage and anyone feeling they might have claustrophobia should take up the rear so they can easily execute a hasty retreat!  I’m thinking “goody, just like entering a pyramid”.

As we duck and squeeze our way through to the inner chamber, I note that some of the stones have carvings while most are plain and unadorned.  Once inside the chamber it opens up to a spiral shape ceiling soaring high above our heads.  The spiral is formed by large boulders and smaller rocks and is primitive but ingenious in construction.

The chamber itself has three alcoves formed beyond the walls of the main chamber.  Two of the alcoves contain a shallow basin stone where the ashes of the interred were found. The third alcove has a basin in a basin and lovely carvings on the wall.  Only 5 bodies were found and there is only one chamber in the entire huge mound/cairn.

To replicate the winter solstice sun shining through the small hole and into the chamber our guide turns off the lights leaving us in complete black.  A black so black your eyes will never adjust.  Using her flashlight she creates what seems like sunlight slowly filling the chamber. Whoa!  Goose-bump time.

After leaving the inner chamber we walk around for a bit drinking in more bits and pieces of the outside.  Then back to the bus and on our merry way.  Next stop a pub for lunch or at least that is the aim. If you want to learn even more about Newgrange, go to Wikipedia.

Seamus tells me that the pubs aren’t open for food like they used to be. The economy, fast food places and modern malls have taken care of that. Sadly, he is right as we stop by pub after pub in little villages and larger towns on our way to Tara.  If they are even open, and many are not, they aren’t serving food. Finally we give up and eat in the cafe at the visitor’s center on the Hill of Tara.  The food is excellent and reasonably priced.  The gift shops are fun and full of great stuff.  I restrain myself to a pamphlet on walking the hill, a green scarf, and a couple of gifts for folks back in Bend.

The Hill of Tara is one of the largest complexes of Celtic monuments in all of Europe! It was first settled 6,000 years ago and remained a special site of political and spiritual significance until 1169.

The weather has turned to grey and misty as we enter the walkway to the church that leads us to the hill itself. We clamber up and down hills that are really mounds that formed the Kings Seat and King Cormac’s Seat.  An aerial view shows the mounds and the trenches surrounding them which are the “hills” we are traversing.  

From the tops of these mounds it appears that you can see all the way to the Irish Sea.  Maybe not, but the view goes on forever in all directions. On top of the Royal(Kings) Seat is Tara’s royal symbol: The Lia Fail or the Stone of Destiny. The stone is said to roar when touched by the rightful king of Tara.


Some fabulous golden treasures have been found here called the Golden Torques of Tara.  They are made of twisted gold and date from about 1200 BC. The famous Tara Brooch (see picture in Dublin blog) was found in 1850 some 15 miles away from Tara at Bettystown Beach. All of these treasures are in the National Museum in Dublin.

Lia Fail: Stone of Destiny

The hill's 100 acres are too much for us to explore in the waning afternoon light.  We do pass by the Mound of the Hostages an ancient ritual and burial mound dating back to about 2500 BC.  It is under excavation and is fenced all around.  We wend our way back to the church to have a look at the grave stones.

The present church and wall date from 1822, but the very first church built here was built in the early 13th century.  You might say it was a meeting of Ancient Celtic Tara and Tara of the Christian era.

Old & New Together

Sarcophagus-like Grave Stone

I am fascinated by old grave stones and I am not disappointed.  The earliest grave stones date from the 17th century, but inside the church is a memorial stone of the local Dillon family dated 1595.  The graveyard is still used until today and is a strange mix of ancient and modern.  I especially am taken with a sarcophagus-like stone sitting in the middle of the lawn. 

Full of wonderful ancient Celtic energy we begin our way back to Dublin and my hotel. But before we leave the site we drive to one of the many ancient and holy wells on and around the Hill of Tara.  It is a strange grotto-like well with St. Brigid’s crosses hanging on the wall and other bits of tribute tied on the wire fence sealing off the entrance.

We chat about all we have seen and both agree it has been a magical day.  I have spoken about the Irish wit and how enchanted I am with it in past blogs. The wit hit again in the listing on the back of a catering van.  Take a look at this picture and see if you can see what I find to be a sample of that wit.

Catering Truck

HOOK LIGHTHOUSE WEXFORD IRELAND

Our Playshop concluded on Friday so seven of us set off with Seamus after lunch on Saturday to visit Hook Lighthouse and then stop at a ruin of a Templar church.

Hook Lighthouse

The weather was very sunny at Creacon and really quite mild, but we all knew how the weather can change close to the sea so we bundled up for the journey.

The drive took about 35 to 40 minutes wending its way through the countryside.  Again we were treated to little villages, thatch roofed cottages and peaceful pastoral scenes along our way.

It began to sprinkle but by the time we arrived at Hook the sun was shining brightly and the wind howling loudly. One of the oldest operational lighthouses in the world it has been in operation since the early 13th century. It was a major feat at the time of its construction and is a unique example of a medieval lighthouse. In fact, it is in such good repair it is difficult to imagine it has been serving sailors and shipping for 800 years.

The saying “By Hooke or by Crooke” comes from navigating the waters around this area.  Many ships have been wrecked in these waters because of the river meeting the sea here.

I filmed the sea in several places along the massive rocks on its borders.  We were warned not to go up to the water line on the rocks because it is not unusual for a rogue wave to sweep someone out to sea. 

Water Boiling into The Rocks

Spongy Grass

The grass around the grounds and leading out onto the promontory was like walking on a springy bed or couch.  I jumped up and down and it felt just like jumping on a mattress.  On further investigation I could see that the underside of the grass was a thick moss-like plant.  The grass itself was long but laid over on its side so it would never have to be mowed.

As Ellie and I walked out onto the promontory we saw a life ring in a box. There is no way that ring could save anyone from that sea.  First it is way too small and second if someone did go off the cliffs I am pretty sure they would be knocked silly on the rocks and quickly swept out to sea.

We did see a “fairy ring” in the grass. :-).

Fairy Ring

In an enclosed courtyard by the side of the lighthouse is a small labyrinth.  I didn’t see any sign telling the story of the labyrinth, but a few of our group walked it.

Templar Church Ruin

Inside the lighthouse there was a gift shop and a little snack shop. After a warm cup of tea to take off the chill of wandering around the outside of the lighthouse we set off for the ruins of the Templar church and its graveyard.

The church was very small and in a state of ruin.  Several of us ventured up the steep and narrow stone steps to the second floor.  The roof is gone, but it is evident there was a third story or maybe a bell tower as well.

Inside Second Story

After exploring the graveyard and looking at the old stones it was time to start back to Creacon.  

Old Graveyard

Along the way it began to rain and the sun was still shining.  All of a sudden we spied a double rainbow.  Seamus stopped the van at the first opportunity and we all but fell out of the van in our excitement to try to get a photo. The rainbow left as fast as it came so no photo for me!  You'll just have to take my word for it :-)

Creacon New Ross Ireland Workshop

CREACON NEW ROSS IRELAND WORKSHOP

Yes, this is my second journey to Ireland in just a few months.  This time I am attending a workshop or “Playshop”as my teacher, Stephanie Azaria, calls it. Fifteen of us gather from all over the world to learn about a new Astrology called Cosmic Astrology.  This form of astrology uses a clock format going clockwise instead of the houses going counterclockwise. It is much more complex than that, but suffice it to say it is a tool to help us move into the new vibration of the earth with an understanding of who we are, what we need to work on, and how we can help ourselves and others to move forward in this ever fast changing world with little or no fear. To learn more about this type of astrology go to Stephanie’s website at www.thecosmicpath.com

I arrive in Dublin on an overnight flight from Newark, New Jersey.  On my flight are 10 others attending the Playshop.  We are met and transported by Seamus and another van driver to make the 2 1/2 hour journey south to New Ross and Creacon.  We pass through the ever changing weather and countryside so familiar to me from my recent journey.  This time, however, I can look around since I am not the driver. 

The Irish countryside never ceases to make me feel warm, joyous, and glad to be there.  It is so pastural and welcoming.  Cows graze, goats and sheep munch and horses play. We pass through one quaint village after another.

Nicholas is in our van.  He is an old hand at Creacon and Cosmic Astrology.  He is one of the 12 people who developed this method and so the questions are many and the discussion interesting and lively.

At last we arrive at Creacon. Now, I am no expert on Ashrams. I have only read about them in a limited amount in books and articles so my view of Creacon may be a bit distorted.  Derek O’Neill, the founder of Creacon, has studied extensively with Sai Baba of India in Ashrams there.  Thus Creacon is set up Ashram-like.

Creacon courtyard

I am greeted by Marcella and Michelle like a long lost friend.  Indeed, it great to see them again.  They immediately ask about Catherine and tell me to say hello to her for them.  I knew before leaving that I will be sharing a room; maybe even up to two roommates.  Having had my own space while traveling for so long, I had to create a positive picture in my mind what that might be like.  I was set!

My room is the green room (they all have colors for names). The green room has two bunk beds, a desk, dresser and two night stands.  Its private bath is huge and almost as big as the room itself. The bath houses a generous wardrobe and a combo bath tub/shower.

There are 4 of us sharing the room.  Three of us are in the playshop and the fourth is there on a three week retreat program. We range in age from 24 to 69 (me). The two bottom bunks are taken so Mariana and I, the last to arrive, choose our top bunks.  The beds are metal, not wood and they shake a lot with any movement.

I have visions of hauling myself up and down the ladder for my nightly one to three time visits to the john.  I offer all of them ear plugs since I am told I snore.  I warn my bunk mate, Nancy, of my numerous trips during the night and hope I will not be too disturbing to her.  I unpack and settle in. By the end of the week I have more defined muscles in my arms and stronger legs.  Maybe I’ll get a bunk bed for home and sleep on the top bunk!!!

We have the rest of the day free to wander, rest and relax and get to know one another.  Lunch is at 1 and dinner at 6.  Breakfast is the only meal with leeway for time of attendance - 8:30 to 9:30.  We must be in bed by 10PM with noise kept to nothing or at least a minimum. At all times we are expected to keep our voices down and doors closed quietly.  There are rules and discipline to Creacon - Ashramish.  This is fine, just different.  At one point Stephanie encourages us to eat a meal in complete silence so we can see how that helps us pay attention to the nourishment entering our bodies.  It really is a calming and wonderful experience.

On Monday we begin our playshop.  I have brought colored stole-like ribbons with beads and crystals hanging on the ends for us to wear during the sessions.  Mariana has brought bracelets.  Each hour of the clock representing a month has a color vibration attached to it.  Stephanie provided Mariana and I with the colors and numbers to make.

I am not going to go any further into the playshop because it needs a whole book to explain.  Just let me say that it was very enlightening, innovative and FUN!

The road leading past Creacon

As the week progresses I get the opportunity to sit and chat with almost everyone in attendance. I take walks with Nancy, my bunk mate and Daniella, a lawyer from Spain.  We walk the country roads around Creacon breathing in the fresh air and letting the calming effect of the surrounding pastures and animal life fill us.  We get to know a little about each other.

Look at that blue sky!

When we called they all gathered

Nancy is from Washington State and has a farm.  She works as the Washington State University’s small farms and local food coordinator.  She is 7 years younger than I and is in the middle of Chemo Therapy for a reoccurrence of breast cancer.  She has written a book about her experiences with her cancer and is called upon to council other women in her situation.

she let us pet her

I am humbled and warmed by her kindness, enthusiasm, and strength.  

I feel that we will form a new and lasting friendship.

Daniella works for the Spanish government as a lawyer.  She has not been paid in a year.  They say there is no money to pay her and her colleagues, but they still have money for bonuses and drugs for the higher ups.  She and some of her colleagues are staring a grassroots movement to stop the unfairness of the situation.  She is fiery and committed to her cause.  She says she is so fiery because she is half Sicilian!  We talk about how to go about the reform movement from a place of love instead of anger.  I suggest ways to create slogans from a positive perspective with positive sayings.

Derek arrives on Monday evening and the energy changes dramatically.  He is a force of nature, yet every person’s person.  He gives a private discourse for us.  His wisdom and insight is inspiring.  He will be there through Wednesday night when he will give his monthly discourse to the public.

Creacon begins to fill up and by Wednesday it is filled to capacity (40). Then there are people who come in for just dinner and the discourse so that by that night there are at least 60 people in attendance.  No chance of a quiet meal that night!  It is very different from when it was just Cat and I staying there.

I have two fabulous treatments.  One is acupuncture with the purpose of the releasing of anger and guilt and suppressed emotions that even I am unaware I still hold.  Very cleansing, but also enlightening.  I realize that I still have a ways to go before I have let go of everything and get on with filling myself up with love.  The other is a 2 hour massage where she concentrates on balancing the feminine and masculine in me.  Wonderful!

On Saturday I arrange an outing for 7 of us to visit the Hook Lighthouse and stop at the ruins of a Templar church. That experience will be in the next blog:-)

It is time to say good-bye to Creacon and all the new people I have met.  We speak about getting together again at Mount Shasta in the late summer/early fall.  I look forward to that.

I leave knowing more about myself than I did before.  That journey will never end, I am sure.  I have one more day in Dublin and I have arranged for Seamus to take me out to New Grange and The Hill of Tara.  More about that in my final blog about this adventure.

Much Love To You All,

Mom/Grandma/Sara